what to see in buenos aires
San Telmo neighborhood, Photo By Max Kim-Bee, April 2006
- buenos aires itineraries
- After shopping yourself silly in Palermo, branch out to these 'hoods.
- A Sunday in San Telmo
- Toss back an espresso and take a 30-minute cab ride to the famed San Telmo Flea Market on Plaza Dorrego, where vendors start setting up at 8 A.M. Antique silver, hand-embroidered linens and cut glass are the major draws—and the prices are unbelievable. Continue the treasure hunt at Gil Antiguedades (Humberto 1° 412, 54-11-4361-5019; gilantiguedades.com.ar), which stocks pristine Victorian dresses ($400 and up), plus china and artwork. At legendary Pallarols (Defensa 1039, 54-11- 4362-0641; pallarols.com.ar), sixth-generation silversmith Juan Carlos Pallarols handcrafts dazzling goblets, candlesticks, trays and more.
- Luxe Leisure in Recoleta
- In B.A.'s grandest neighborhood, crossed with wide tree-lined avenues and palatial houses, even the dead have regal surrounds. The 13- acre Italian-style Cementerio de la Recoleta (Junín 1760, 54-11-4803-1594) features 4,870 wildly ornate family mausoleums, including that of Eva Peron, aka Evita. Rejoin the living with a proper afternoon tea (4 to 7 P.M.) in the flower-filled conservatory of the city's oldest hotel, the exquisitely furnished Louis XIV-style Alvear Palace Hotel (Ave. Alvear 1891, 54-11- 4808-2100; alvearpalace.com). After dark, visit Versailles-ornate Milion (Parana 1048, 54-11- 4815-9925) for dinner or a bottle of Malbec wine. This relaxed bar/café/restaurant/gallery in three floors of a restored 1900s mansion is the perfect launching pad for a long Buenos Aires night.
